I just brought my first catamaran back from Miami—it’s not new, by the way; it’s a 2012 Lagoon 380.
Before making the purchase, I spent three whole months scouring the internet, looking at over a hundred listings, and speaking on the phone with more than a dozen brokers.
I thought I was fully prepared. But in the first week after launching, I discovered three hidden issues.
Today, I’ll talk about the pitfalls I’ve encountered and the methods I’ve learned for inspecting boats.
Why I Gave Up Monohulls and Chose a Catamaran
I used to own a monohull sailboat—a 31-foot, older Beneteau.
Every time we went out to sea, the boat would heel 35 degrees. My wife got seasick. My kids cried.
A catamaran is different. It doesn’t heel. It’s stable.
This was actually a necessity. It wasn’t a matter of “wanting” one—it was “having to” switch.
Lesson #1: Don’t just look at the “age of the boat”; look at its “service history”
The first boat I looked at was a 2015 Leopard 40.
It was relatively new and looked pristine. The seller said it had been “used very little.”
I almost paid for it.
Later, I asked a friend to check the vessel’s registration records, which revealed that over the past five years, this boat had spent as much as three years operating as a charter vessel in the Caribbean.
What does this mean? The boat had changed hands frequently, and renters didn’t take good care of it. The engine alone had already logged over 3,000 hours.
There’s a huge difference between private use and commercial charter for the same boat.
My advice:
Request the engine hour count (don’t just look at the odometer—check the service records as well)
Check the vessel’s registration status (if it’s commercially registered, steer clear)
Ask whether the boat has ever been part of a charter fleet
Lesson #2: Checking the “soft connections” is more critical than inspecting the engine
A broken engine can be replaced. But if the hull structure is damaged, it’s too expensive to repair.
On catamarans, the soft connections are concentrated in a few key areas.
The junction between the crossbeam and the hull
Open the floor of the bilge to check for cracks at the connection points. On many used boats, after prolonged exposure to rough seas, gaps can form in these areas.
Rudder Actuator and Steering Linkage
Take a long screwdriver, press it against the rudder mount, and put your ear to the other end to listen. If you hear a “clicking” sound, it indicates looseness—this actually happened on a 2011 Fountaine Pajot I inspected.
The Joint Between the Deck and the Hull
Tap it with your finger. If it sounds hollow, it means the adhesive has failed. I’m not kidding.
Lesson #3: Don’t trust claims of “brand-new sails”—check for fabric aging
The seller said, “The mainsail was replaced last year.”
I took a look—it was a Dacron sail. It was in decent condition.
However, upon closer inspection, the sail’s laminated edges were already showing faint signs of whitening. The fibers were starting to become exposed. This indicates that the sun’s UV rays have already partially damaged the sailcloth’s structure.
A new sail doesn’t necessarily mean a good sail.
Details that ordinary buyers tend to overlook:
Are the sail’s edges hardened? (Hardening indicates aging.)
Are there mold spots inside the sail bag? (Mold spots indicate prolonged storage in damp conditions)
Are the seams on the sail fraying? (Fraying means a strength reduction of over 40%)
Lesson 4: A catamaran’s “draft” is a hidden limitation
A friend of mine bought a 2020 Lagoon 42 with a draft of 1.3 meters.
He thought it was shallow enough to navigate most shallow waters.
However, the water depth at his dock is only 1.5 meters. He can barely get in at high tide, but at low tide, the boat runs aground immediately.
Although catamarans have a shallow draft, they are wide. When entering narrow docks, they have a large turning radius.
Practical Advice:
Check the low-tide depth at your dock
Measure whether the boat’s width exceeds the berth width
Calculate the turning space: Catamarans require 30% more space than monohulls of the same length
Lesson 5: Don’t just look at the “equipment list”—check what’s “actually operational”
The list the broker sent me included “air conditioning,” “generator,” “watermaker,” and “radar.”
The first thing I did when I boarded was turn everything on full blast.
After running the air conditioner for 10 minutes, the air coming out wasn’t cold. Upon inspection, I found the seawater valve was clogged.
I turned on the watermaker, but the TDS level of the output water was over 300; the membrane needed to be replaced, at a cost of $1,200.
The generator was running and appeared to be functioning normally; however, after conducting a load test, voltage fluctuations exceeding 5% were detected—it turned out the voltage regulator was damaged.
The equipment listed by the seller does not necessarily mean it is operational.
I later learned that I could ask the seller to provide a “video of the equipment in operation,” or, after boarding the boat, personally operate each piece of equipment for at least 5 minutes.
My Essential Inspection Checklist (printed and brought on board)
| Inspection Item | Specific Actions | Points to Note |
|---|---|---|
| Engine | Cold start, hot start, load test | Listen for any abnormal vibrations at idle |
| Transmission | Switch between forward and reverse; listen for gear noise | Shift delay exceeding 1 second = wear |
| Hull | Tap the hull and listen for an echo | A solid sound = solid; a hollow sound = water damage |
| Deck | Inspect screw holes and window sealant | Grayish discoloration or cracks = aging and water leakage |
| Sails | Take photos of each sail and examine them at close-up | Inspect the laminated edges and stitching |
| Electrical | Test all switches and outlets one by one | Watch for fluctuations on the voltmeter |
| Plumbing | Turn on all faucets and flush the toilet | Check for any musty or greasy odors |
| Fuel system | Check inside the fuel tank | Use a long stick dipped in fuel to check for sediment |
Frequently Asked Questions (Q&A)
Q: When buying a catamaran, why do so many people say, “You should bring an expert when inspecting the boat”?
I initially thought the same way, but experts charge between $800 and $1,200 per day, and they may not necessarily be familiar with the specific issues affecting the exact model you intend to purchase.
A more practical approach: Research the “known issues” with that specific model yourself. For example, the Lagoon 380 has been known to develop cracks in the rudder mount, while Fountaine Pajot models have experienced delamination on the deck. Once you’re aware of these issues, you can focus your inspection accordingly.
Q: Is it worth buying a catamaran that’s over 10 years old?
Check the maintenance history. I once saw a 1998 Prout that the owner had maintained personally; all the piping had been replaced, and the engine had undergone a major overhaul. It was in better condition than many charter boats built in 2015.The key point is that you have to accept that it will require a continuous investment of both time and money.
Q: Are catamarans harder to sell than monohulls?
Depending on the region—in Florida, the Caribbean, and the Mediterranean—catamarans sell quite well, however, in the Great Lakes region, catamarans are difficult to sell—this is primarily due to regional preferences. Before purchasing, you should carefully consider your plans for reselling the boat over the next three to five years.
Q: With a limited budget, should I buy a new boat from a smaller brand or a used boat from a major brand?
My personal advice is to choose a used boat from a major brand. This is because spare parts for major brands are easier to find, and there are numerous service centers available. While new boats from smaller brands may be inexpensive, if the steering wheel breaks, for example, you could face a wait of up to three months for a replacement to be shipped from Europe. and this is something that has actually happened.
Q: When buying a boat, what hidden costs are easy to overlook?
Rent for dry dock space wide enough for a catamaran tends to be quite high. Insurance premiums for new boat owners can double. As for annual maintenance, my repair costs in the first year amounted to 10% of the boat’s purchase price.Then there are shipping costs. When you add all of these up, they can amount to 15–20% of the purchase price.
Author’s Note: The author of this article is an amateur sailor with eight years of sailing experience who has assisted friends with seven transoceanic boat purchases and inspections over the past five years. All insights are based on real-life experiences and lessons learned, and do not constitute commercial promotion.